Colette Clover capri pants

Making capri pants, and in particular this pattern, has been on my "To Do" list for a while. I've never made pants before and these looked so simple and cute. I thought "why not?" - if it works out I can make it in all sorts of colours. Well, not so easy....

First, the fabric: French navy cotton with 2% spandex. Affordable fabric in case things do not go well. Originally I was going to line these pants - what was I thinking?? I gave this idea up quickly. 

I made a toile (terrible initial fit) and attended a class to adjust the pattern for a better fit, had to make major modifications, made a second toile, modified this and then finally cut the fashion fabric. All good? Nope. The garment sewed together well but the fit was awful - no photos necessary - it looked like ill fitting jodhpurs. The unfinished garment is lying in pieces in the sewing room. 

I'm not even going to pretend to know what went wrong. My only guesses are...
- they are pants
- they are fitted stretchy pants
- the toile was made in non-stretch muslin, maybe it should have been made in fabric with the same degree of stretch
- I "self fitted" the second toile - not ideal

I think it's salvageable - I really do but I'll get help. If I can get the fit right, I think they could become a good staple garment. 

Not sure I'm too keen about sewing pants again though. What about you?

Fitting a commercial pattern: Pants

Recently I  attended my second class on fitting and modifying a commercial pattern. Last time it was a dress, this time pants.

I have wanted to make the Colette Clover pants for sometime - so cute and versatile but I was intimidated mainly because they are PANTS and they are fitted! Plus I've never made a pair of pants before.

Source

So best to get help from professionals - I'm glad I did. So, I completed a muslin (in calico) based on the sizing on the chart I thought. Not good - too small around the hips and way too low at the back. Also there's something strange going on in the crotch area of the pattern and it was a bit full at the front.

Source - not my pants btw

So quite a few modifications needed and a second muslin will have to be done. Having read other blogs on the Clover pants, fitting this pattern (or maybe all pants) can be an issue but when people get it right, they seemed to be happy with them.

My suggestions:-
- definitely make a test garment (ideally in a similar stretch fabric)
- Colette as a series of blogs for her Clover Sewalong which includes fabric select and fitting - definitely worth a look

Despite making the muslin in calico (I couldn't find any cheap fabric with the right stretch), I will be using fabric with stretch for comfort. So I'll be checking the fit again in the fashion fabric. I want to include stretchable interlining in the pants to help minimise the stretch fabric growing as I wear it (I hope). And I'll be lining them for luxury and comfort. This could be overkill but I'll see how we go.

I've found a thick French blue cotton with some stretch which will be excellent for my first attempt. Fingers crossed.....