Inspiration Board: 1950s cocktail dress with train

Today I have two looks from the same gorgeous vintage McCalls cocktail dress pattern from the 1950s:-

This first look is sleek and modern with a classic silhouette of the dress focussing on the waist and feature train completed with a pair of killer red heels.

1950s cocktail dress with train by sewindigo featuring hot pink heels

While this second look has a much more "lady-like' feel with the lace bodice, gloves the dainty turquoise kitten heels.

1950s lace bodice cocktails dress by sewindigo featuring mid heels

Do you have any preferences for the look? What are your thoughts on the lace bodice and feature train? Do you prefer the pencil or flared skirt.


PS Don't forget to enter the Colette pattern giveaway here. If you already follow, just leave a comment letting me know you'd like to be in the running. 

Colette pattern mid week giveaway

This week I'm giving away a brand new Colette Patterns Negroni Mens Shirt pattern. 

About the pattern:

Source: Colette Patterns

For men that like a classic, slightly retro shirt with a more modern cut, this shirt pattern is just the thing. The instructions will guide you gently through every step of creating a well-crafted casual shirt: felled seams, a lined back yoke, and sleeve plackets on the long sleeve version. Subtle details include a convertible collar (also known as a "camp collar") and midcentury style collar loop detail.

This shirt can be made in a variety of fabrics, such as crisp shirting, warm flannel for winter, or cool rayon for summer. Check out the pattern info for more details and suggested fabrics.

Version 1 has long sleeves finished with a placket and cuff. Version 2 has short sleeves.

To enter: Simply, do one of the following...
- Like Sew Indigo in Facebook  
- Like Sew Indigo at Etsy
- Follow this blog

Then leave a comment on this post letting me know you've entered. For extra chances to win, action two or more of the above items and again leave a comment letting me know. This is open to your friends and followers, so please feel free to tell them about the giveaway. The winner will be drawn at random next Thursday 22 March.

Good luck and thanks for entering!

Japanese Stylish Dress Book - Patten C

I saw this pattern made up sometime ago and it had been on my "To Do" list for summer and I recently bought this Liberty lawn especially for this pattern. Time to get sewing.

Liberty - Becci Navy/Red Tana Lawn

Being a fairly simple pattern, I decided to practise my new found dressmaking techniques. So.....

1. I traced the pattern. I always find this part a little tedious.

2. I made some pattern adjustments. Firstly I assumed the pattern did not include seam allowances - I'm never really sure but as the sizes are generally on the small side, I included seam allowances anyway. I also did a full bust adjustment (FBA).

3. I made a muslin to check fit and sizing.

No calico at the time so I improvised

4. I hand basted everything - yep everything...here's the proof...

Voila!

So what did I learn:-

• The FBA was probably a good idea. This was my first attempt at the adjustment, and I'm not sure I have this entirely right yet. Something a bit strange happens with the armscye. It seems so get shorter. The final top gaped under the arm a little. 
• My bias technique is improving but still needs work. All the basting helped a lot. I read something recently about stretching the bias, I'll try this next time. 
• Liberty lawn is a delight to work with.
• I would definitely make this pattern again. 

Does anyone have any tips on the full bust adjustment? What method do you use? How do you keep the armscye under control? If you have a fuller bust do you do a FBA for every pattern?

The Making of Chanel Couture

This video has been around for a while but the couture process is fascinating. Enjoy.

Couture dressing making on L Plates

Let's face it - I'm not a particularly good sewer. I'm keen. I can follow instructions. I can put pieces together but somehow the clothes don't turn out as I imagined. The fit's not quite right and the fabric doesn't always work with the pattern design. The finished garment then gets relegated to the back of the closet. Sound familiar or is it just me?

-Source-

You see, I'm mostly self taught. I kind of learned as I went along by reading and following pattern instructions (apart from a few short lessons - thank you Gay).

Recently I had a enforced rest and decided to use the time to improve my technical sewing knowledge and skills. So I enrolled in Susan Khajle's online course in the The Couture Dress and absolutely loved it. I learnt a heap of stuff. You can ask questions, take notes and revisit sections whenever you like - it's a great resource.

The Couture Course at Craftsy.com

The approach is so entirely different from what I have learned in the past but it also make a whole lot more sense. Here's what I've learned:-

• Respect the grain. 
• If you don't understand the fabric and the fabric grain and take particular care when lining the pattern pieces up on the grain, the garment will never sit right, ever.
• Focus on the stitching/seam line, not the cutting line. 
• The seam line is what determines the fit of the dress, not the cutting line. Leaving extra seam allowance will allow for fit adjustments.
• Make a muslin. 
• This will allow you to test the garment fit and make any changes before cutting into your expensive fashion fabric. It can then be used as your pattern again later.
• Hand baste, hand baste, hand baste.
• Yes, time consuming but you regain control of what you're sewing the the machine. At least I do anyway.
• Interlining and lining
• Gives more body and luxury to the garment. You can also hide construction elements like hand stitching or reinforcing pieces. 
• Hand stitching the zip
• Looked a whole lot easier than trying to get a machine stitched zipper right. But that may be in Susan's capable hands, I'll report back when I've tried it. 
• Lastly...take the time, be patient and enjoy the process.  Oh and now I know why these dresses cost so much!

Liebster Blog Award

I was so surprised and flattered to receive a Liebster Blog Award from the lovely Evelyn of Hand Sewn Home Grown from her blog about sewing and gardening.

What is the Liebster blog award you ask? Good question. The origins are unclear but it's a method to showcase blogs with fewer than 200 followers. "Liebster" is a German word for favourite. I was a little uncertain about these Awards as it has a "chain-mail" feel to it - remember those from school?

However, there is a difference...The difference is that someone has taken the time to read and appreciate your blog and let other people know. When there are so many blogs out there, it's nice to get the recognition. So here are the "rules" (no pressure. the choice to participate is yours)....

1 - thank your Liebster blog award presenter on your blog. 
2 - link back to the blogger who presented the award to you. 
3 - copy/paste the blog award on your blog. 
4 - present the liebster blog award to 5 blogs (with 200 followers or less). 
5 - let them know they have been chosen by leaving a comment.


Here are my 5 Liebster Blog Award recipients:-

1. Gay from Handmade - And sew it seams... a wonderful and generous sewing teacher
2. Jane from Lempo Bee - a lovely blog about sewing, family and now photography
3. Nick from Collecting Feathers - a very clever and creative vintage lover
4. EvaDress - glamorous reproduction vintage patterns and pattern making
5. Megan from Style Meganzine - a cool style blog

Top 5 Gowns at the 2012 Oscars

Yipee more frocks! Here are my top 5 gowns at todays Academy Awards. What are yours?

Milla Jovovich wears an Elie Saab dress, Jacob & Co jewelry and an Edie Parker clutch.
Source: hollywoodreporter.com via Suellen on Pinterest

Rose Byrne wears a black sequined Vivienne Westwood gown with Chanel Fine Jewelry and Jimmy Choo shoes.
Source: hollywoodreporter.com via Suellen on Pinterest

Emma Stone hits the Oscar carpet in Giambattista Valli gown, complete with a large bow and Louis Vuitton jewels.
Source: hollywoodreporter.com via Suellen on Pinterest

Jessica Chastain wears a hand-embroidered black-and-gold gown from Alexander McQueen. 
Source: hollywoodreporter.com via Suellen on Pinterest

The Descendants star Judy Greer, wearing a Monique Lhuillier gown
Source: hollywoodreporter.com via Suellen on Pinterest

And Honourable Mention...for the dress (not the hair)..

Kelly Osbourne wears a Georges Hobeika gown and Montblanc jewellerySource: hollywoodreporter.com via Suellen on Pinterest

Inspiration Board: Cowl neck cocktail dress

You may remember my post about inspiration boards on some of my vintage patterns. I started this because...well...Polyvore is just plain fun and often it helps to see the potential in a pattern, especially a vintage one where we would prefer a contemporary look.

Cowl neck cocktail dress by sewindigo featuring a silk dress

What I like about this pattern is it looks comfortable, elegant and effortless to wear. Depending on fabric and accessories it can be dressed up or dressed down. It's also flexible - waist tie, neck tie or no tie. It can be worn short or long with a side slit.

In a pretty floral print it could be a sweet summer dress, gorgeous in a vivid silk or perhaps a show stopper in sequins.

Costumes - Games of Thrones

One of my favourite programs at the moment is Game of Thrones. It's based on a series of novels called "A Song of Ice and Fire" by George RR Martin. Set in the the mythical Seven Kingdoms of the Westeros, it chronicles the violent struggles of the kingdom's noble families to gain control over the Iron Throne. Its brutal, complex and fascinating. You can read and see more about it here.

What I think is fascinating from a costume point of view, is that although the series has a medieval flavour to it, it also has a key fantasy element which allows the clothing to be less about period costume and more about the story and the characters. It's a blend of styles from many countries and period making it a fantastic looking series.

Costume Designer: Michele Clapton

Here's a fabulous video with Michele discussing the costume design detail for the series including the though process behind the colours, textiles and styles selected for the characters.

I really enjoyed it, I hope you do to.

Grace Kelly was fashion thrifty

Grace Kelly was thrifty with her approach to her clothes - apparently. She's also a huge movie style icon of mine. I have written about her previously here and her modern influence here.

In a recent newspaper article, her wardrobe mistress from Monaco, Maryel Giraden speaks of her as beautiful and stylish but frugal with her fashion. She would often re-wear favourites, get them altered or get a Ms Giraden to whip up a Vogue pattern she fancied. On the day she tragically plunged off the cliff on the Cote D'Azur, she was taking clothes to be altered and reworked for the next season's wardrobe.

One piece of Kelly fashion history that has captured my imagination was the dress she wore to her first meeting with her future husband, the Prince. It was 1955, Kelly was in the middle of a hectic trip to the Cannes Film Festival and the hotel electricity had gone out. With no way to iron an outfit, she pulled out the least crushed dress, a long sleeved floral silk taffeta dress inspired by a "easy to sew" McCall pattern from a pattern book. The fabric featured splashes of pink, yellow and white flowers on a black background.

Excerpt from "Grace Kelly Style"

Her hair was pulled back (no blow dry possible) and finished with a  floral headpiece. The effect was stunning and and the rest (as they say) is history....

Do you have any style or fashion icons? What do you think of the dress?