Inspiration Board: 60s inspired cross over cocktail dress with kitten heel and coat

Retro cross over cocktail dress by sewindigo featuring narrow shoes

Red Sheath Dress Revisited

Remember this dress that I laboured over for week? It was my attempt at introducing couture techniques into my sewing. As promised, here's me in the dress instead of the dress form (better late than never). Apologies for the quality of the photo - as you can see it was taken at night.

Dinner in Venice

Also as a postscript, I washed the dress in a washing machine and being cotton it came out looking pretty crumpled. I wasn't feeling too confident about how if was going to iron.Well, I'm pleased to report it was an absolute dream to iron - this was unexpected.

I can only put it down to the construction.  Specifically the use of the interlining and how the lining was inserted into the dress. So apart from being so easy to wear, it's also really easy to care for - the extra effort was definitely worth it.

Inspiration Board: 1950's evening gown

1950's evening gown by sewindigo featuring platform heels

Inspiration Board: 1930s/40s glamour loungewear

1940s loungewear by sewindigo featuring pink slippers

A word about housecoats (also known as dust coats) - not too glamorous sounding are they? But don't confuse them with the everyday "dressing gown" we know now. In the past, dressing gowns were  associated with male clothing. Housecoats were a feminine item, popular in the 1940s. They were used to put over day clothes to protect them when doing chores in the home, hence the long sleeves and longer hemlines.

Housecoats were usually made of a lightweight fabric or sometimes quilted for warmth and would fasten down the front with either a zipper or buttons.  The red housecoat in this board is by Mainboucher from 1950s (in the Met Museum). Hardly a frumpy style "dressing gown"! The McCall housecoat pattern is from 1939.

Overtime the purpose of the housecoat changed and women starting wearing them in the evening when hosting guests. The term housecoat is rarely used now has merged with the dressing gown into a unisex item worn at home. 

Finished garment: Vintage red sheath dress

You may remember I finished a couple of courses recently:-
- Susan's Khaljie's online The Couture Dress course
- Fitting a commercial pattern course

I decided to apply what I had learned to a vintage sheath dress pattern I'd collected some time ago. It ticked all the right boxes for us curvy girls:-

• the bodice and skirt darts allowed for figure flattering fitting
• the skirt was not quite pencil straight so was hip/thigh skimming
• the 2 side slits allowed for ease of movement
• there was a nice V neck feature at the back of the dress
• there were some subtle tucks at the waist making the stomach area more flattering
• I left the overskirt option off but having seen the dress, it could be quite cute in the right fabric

So to the fabric and construction:-

-source-

• Fashion fabric: Red/black digital print cotton with a subtle sateen finish. Originally I was thinking silk but I chose a lower cost option so I could test the outcome and also wear it more often. I also wanted a slightly retro look in the fabric
• Interlining: lightweight cotton (not my best choice as it did not have great body and was difficult to handle but then I did want a washable option)
• Lining: Red poly acetate - cost related choice again but it was a pain to handle (especially during cutting and marking)

Not the greatest photos but I promise to post photos of me wearing the dress...

Front - boat neck fitted bodice

Side view

Side view - hand inserted side zip

Back view - V neckline

Here's what I learned:-

• After the muslin fitting, I spent ages adjusting the muslin (darts etc) and reassembling the toile to make sure I had the fit correct. It was worth it. It was so fantastic to have a garment that fitted regardless of size or shape. It make a huge difference
• I followed Susan's assembly techniques pretty much to the letter. Hand basting, interlining, inserting the lining by hand - the whole nine yards. Again, it was so worth it - the dress is an absolute dream to wear! The interlining and lining makes the garment feel more "substantial", "luxurious" and comfortable to wear.
• I enjoyed the handsewing! Not so much the thread tracing but inserting the lining and zip by hand was easier than I thought and you get more control. Even prick stitching the lining so it didn't roll past the fashion fabric was really satisfying to do. 
• I will absolutely use this muslin pattern again. I could use it to adjust the front neckline for variety. Because the shape is so classic - it lends itself to variation in fabric and some alterations eg. sleeves.
• I learned lots of patience and I can still hear my other half say "is it worth it?" The answer is "yes, absolutely!".
• I've resolved to make fewer garment (not than I'm a prolific sewer anyway) but make them better. I'm aiming for a couple of garments a season. 

How do you feel about the garments you make? Which ones do you enjoy wearing often or make again?

Inspiration Board: Vintage Cocktail Bodice

Here's a rather OTT inspiration board thanks mostly to the Dolce & Gabbana crystal  bustier. The basis for the inspiration is this lovely versatile fitted (and boned) top pattern for cocktail or evening wear. The fabulous thing about this pattern is:

• it has a number of variations to it ie. strapless, shoestring straps, train (unusual), gathered bust and a shoulder drape
• it can be used to fit with any skirt options eg, full, pencil or feathered as in the board

Vintage Cocktail Bodice by sewindigo featuring bustier corset tops

Do you think this pattern is too over the top to be practical? Do you like the variations? Have you seen this kind of train on a bodice before?

PS Don't you love these shoes?

Jacci Jaye's Corset Pattern – Sewing Projects | BurdaStyle.com

Jacci Jaye's Corset Pattern – Sewing Projects | BurdaStyle.com

I saw this today on Burdastyle and loved it. Very rock and roll!  If you follow the link, there's instructions on how to make it. I seems the fabric may be Alexander Henry, which is a fun new find for me. What do you think?

Vintage Vogue pattern V2903 finished dress

This Vintage vogue pattern is an "Orginal 1957 design" reissued pattern - here's the final result made up in the Japanese cotton (pending some hand finishing and hemming). Not too hard, just a little patience required a round the pleating, yoke and sleeves. 

A few notes on the pattern:-
- the sleeves are well fitted, so if you have fuller arms, check the sizing before cutting
- the dress is very long. I shortened it by 5cm and am still debating the length of the hem - right now it's cocktail length
- pay attention to yoke, facing and sleeves as the final effect is only obvious during the last few steps of assembly

The dress is reasonably fitted dress, not obvious on the dress form as it's not adjusted to size in this photo. Also the neckline sits slightly wider on the shoulders that it appears on the dress form.

Front

Front - close up

Not quite as glamourous as the pattern pic but a great dress none the less. I love the fabric and really enjoyed sewing it it. Overall, I'm happy with the result. Let me know your thoughts on what length you think it should be?

Obsessed with vintage

Since rediscovering sewing, I've also discovered a wonderful world of sewing from vintage patterns. I've think I've been on every blog with vintage sewing interested and have also started buying vintage patterns.
My first project is a classic Vintage Vogue dress V2903.

Rather than make it from a vintage style fabric, I've opted to incorporate a more contemporary Japanese cotton fabric in navy.

Wish me luck!