10 Tips to collecting vintage patterns Part 1 (5 tips of 10)

When I started collecting vintage patterns, I had no idea what I was doing - none! I just discovered a world I didn't know existed, liked it and went from there. Here's what I've learned so far......

1. Collect what you like or what you like to wear. 
This is simple, individual and it's much more fun to you collect what you like. For me, I soon learned I leaned heavily towards the glamour of evening wear, so I tend to collect cocktail dresses, gowns and wedding dresses. Not something you use or sew everyday but so lovely to look at.

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For you, it could be lingerie, aprons, children's costumes, day dresses, separates, coats, jackets - you get the idea - the possibilities are endless.

2. Select a period that you like (if you have one)
This could be anywhere from the 1920s to 1980s. The older the pattern, the more difficult it can be to find and perhaps more expensive. Older pattern are sometimes in poorer condition, so be prepared.

1940s lingerie pattern 

1960s cocktail dress pattern

For me, it's mostly the fifties and early sixties but I do stray into other periods if I like the pattern or I happen upon a bargain.

1960s cocktail dress pattern

3. Decide on the size range you wish to collect
Are the patterns for you? If so, you need to understand your measurements and how they relate to vintage patterns. Vintage sizing is vastly different from today's commercial pattern sizing so you'll have to double check the measurements before a purchase.

4. Do you want the pattern new and unused? 

Does this matter to you? Many vintage patterns are already cut (some more carefully than others). They are often still very useable for sewing especially if they have been carefully folded and stored. Other patterns can be found as "factory folded" - these patterns have not been opened or pieces unfolded. Factory folded patterns often command a premium. 

5. How much do you want to spend?
This is a big one. It's very easy to get carried away and blow a budget. Trust me, I've done it. It's worthwhile deciding what your budget is and ultimately what you're prepared to pay for each pattern. More about pricing in a future post.  When purchasing, I generally have a ceiling price in mind. Sometime I will go crazy if I love the pattern but I usually try and keep it in perspective.
As a rule of thumb - be prepared to pay higher prices for older, factory folded patterns especially if they are designer patterns, beachwear (go figure) or evening wear.

I'd love to hear what you look for when buying patterns? Do you have particular type of patterns you collect?

Golden Globes gowns

I've had a blogging vacation - sidetracked by other things. While the sewing projects have slowed lately, I did want to catch up on the Golden Globes (yes I know it was a few days ago..). I did think many of the gowns were underwhelming and strangely familiar but there were 3 that caught my attention.

Firstly, the wonderful Helen Mirram in a navy Badgley Mischka gown with a jewel encrusted belt and plunging neckline. This women knows how to dress - age appropriate (something uncomfortable about that phrase) and elegant. I though she looked stunning.

Next, the incomparable Angelina Jolie. Equally stunning in a Atelier Versace gown that's very different from what she's usually worn on the red carpet. The ivory coloured satin structured gown and the folded flash of red complement by the red lipstick created a very dramatic look. A little icy and distant perhaps but dramatic nonetheless.

Lastly one I'm undecided on but I think I liked it for it's originality - the  Monique Lhuillier formal strapless ball gown with the contemporary digital splash print worn by Sarah Michelle Geller and reportedly selected by her daughter.

What do you think of these? Did you have a favourite on the night?

A Redingote?

Here's a fashion term that was new to me. I found it on one of my new vintage cocktail dress patterns - "One-piece dress with detachable overskirt and redingote".

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So I looked it up and found that a redingote originated from the 18th century when it was used for travel on horse back. Originally it was a bulky, heavy, utilitarian coat but overtime it developed into a more fitted fashion garment. 

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Apparently today's redingote is marked by a close fit at the chest and waist, a belt, and a flare toward the hem, as in the blue version in the vintage pattern. It's not a term I see often - did it have a revival in the 1960s I wonder?

Personally, it was the fringed version of the dress in the pattern that caught my attention...so swinging 60s!

Test garment complete and dress started

After completing the muslin for this dress, I got a bit side tracked a domestic project namely curtains, so progress has been a slow.

Here's what I learned from doing a muslin for the first time:-
- there's a great sense of freedom in cutting and making a muslin, knowing you won't make a mistake with  your precious fashion fabric
- as the dress is for someone else it give's you a great opportunity to try the garment and make any necessary adjustments
- as it's a vintage pattern, some aspects of the dressmaking is a little different, so the muslin gives you an opportunity to become familiar with the garment construction
- you don't have to bother with the time consuming finishing part of the dressmaking
- with this dress in particular, the waist is tiny and very nipped in, so some adjustment was required there
- the length was adjusted to around knee length

This is the selected fabric...it's 100% lightweight cotton.

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As the cotton is relatively sheer, there was some discussion about lining the dress, especially the skirt. However the wearer prefers not to have it lined making life easier for the sewer :).

I haven't posted a photograph of the muslin yet but might add one later - it's a little crumpled....

If you have expensive fabric and are a little uncertain about your pattern and fit, I'd certainly recommend a muslin (or test garment). It 's quicker than you think.Yes, it adds expense but I'd rather have problems with the cheaper muslin at $3/m. 

If you interested in more thoughts on this, the delightful Gertie has done a number of technical posts on her muslins - here's one.... 

Let me know what you think. Do you do one? Do you have a different approach?

Inspiration Board: Vintage Glamour 40s nightgown/evening gown

I've decided to create a series of inspiration boards for the vintage patterns

I feature on Esty. Firstly, I love inspiration boards - they give me a chance

to play with images and colour and I enjoy this. Secondly, I think it helps

visualise the look of the garment. It's not meant to be an actual representation

of the finished article but more a "look and feel. " For the source photographs

on the inspiration boards go to my Polyvore site.

Many of my vintage patterns are carefully selected for features that I like. 

At the moment I'm focussed on cocktail, evening wear and some lingerie. 

Key feature of this 1940s Advance pattern are:

- cross over or racer-style back

- cross over gathered bodice

- bias cut

While this is labelled as a nightgown pattern, it makes a wonderful option

for evening wear - something like this perhaps?

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What was I thinking.....

So I enthusiastically bought the Japanese "Stylish Dress Book" - so many lovely, comfy, summery clothes.

Then decided I would make this pattern - pretty, relaxed, quick to make perhaps - first mistake.

Next I selected a poly fabric that I bought cheaply to test the pattern. The fabric was my second mistake.

satin binding as self binding to hard to handle

After working with help from Gay to decipher the Japanese pattern, I found the fabric challenging to handle and the construction not as straight forward as hoped. Then, I finished it! Not good!

bat wing sleeves - never a good look on me - why don't I learn!!!

Nope - not pregnant

back and front are the same

Ok, what did I learn?
1. Choose a soft cotton like a voile. The poly did not drape as I expected despite being slippery to handle giving the final maternity top effect. I think the fabric choice would make most of the difference to the finished garment.
2. Don't add any seam allowance. I did and it's not needed.
3. If you're full busted, this pattern may not be for you (or me for that matter).

This will now be quietly filed in the "live and learn" category. Now time for a cuppa and a rethink....

Vintage McCall's 4475 dress

I've finally embarked on making my first genuine vintage pattern after banging on about them for sometime. So, I'm going out on a limb and will be posting about my progress as I go.

The pattern: 1950's McCall's 4475 dress. It has a gathered bodice (back and front). I'll be making version A which has a gathered skirt. As you can see from the pattern diagram, this gathering is at the front of the skirt.

The fabric: White Russian Floral cotton from here. As it's a lightweight cotton, I may have to find a solution to prevent the skirt from being too sheer.
The victim recipient: My sister (trusting girl)
The plan: I've carefully traced and refolded the pattern. I'm making adjustments to suit, specifically, lengthening the bodice, adding some more width to the sleeve for comfort and shortening the skirt to knee length. I'll make a muslin to check fit and go from there...wish me luck...

New York Cape - completed

Okay so it's spring and I just finished a winter coat - my version of the New York Cape pattern . So, albeit a little late for winter this year but I'll be ready for next year. I used a heavy weight pure Scottish wool - a bargain purchase and made my own binding from a faux light weight suede fabric (I was in thrifty mode).

The  pattern was super easy to assemble, the longest part was applying all the binding - a skill I still have to perfect. This wasn't helped by the thickness of the wool I chose - something lighter weight may have been easier.

With help from the lovely Gay at her Studio, I made corded buttonholes and covered buttons with the binding fabric.

A great little pattern and I especially like the way it fits over the shoulders. Avoid making the binding to  make it easier on yourself.

Adjustable bias binding presser foot

Finally back to the sewing machine after our 4 months sailing trip. I must admit I really missed having something "crafty" to do and will prepare better  for the next trip.

First job - taking up two pairs of jeans - not interesting - so while I have the machine out I'll test a couple of things out....

I want to do is improve my technical sewing skills and I think the trick is having the right equipment. So, I'm investing in some sewing gadgets. One of them is the Adjustable Bias Binding Presser Foot. My bias binding skills suck, so anything has to help. Plus I want to make this pattern, it needs 5 meters of binding and I want it to look well finished.

Here's what I learned in trying to use this new foot:-
- I don't think I could have worked it out myself, so the video I stumbled on below really helped

- adjustments can be made for the binding width and stitch position - very nifty
- once these adjustments are made, it's pretty straight forward to use
- this is the second test attempt on sample. I'm pleased with it as it's a small binding and very fiddly to do otherwise

Collecting stuff

Unable to get my hands on fabric or a machine during our travels, I have resorted to collecting stuff for my stash. Not entirely productive but fun none the less.

I have haunted Op-Shops, markets and all manner of second hand, vintage and antique stores (much to the confusion of my better half). While I'd collected small things that have taken my fancy, I don't entirely know what to do with them....yet. My favourite places have been Maleny, Queensland (great for second hand books and organic linen) and Bellingen, NSW a beautiful town with fantastic vintage stores and cafes.

Here's a sample of some of the "electric" collected stuff...the good news is we should be home soon and I can get to "work".

1950's vintage "Babes in the Wood"

1950's vintage "Babes in the Wood"

1940"s illustration 

The cutest fabric

Potential cocktail ring perhaps